John Galliano presented his third Maison Margiela couture collection this morning in Paris. Like his previous efforts, the Spring 2016 collection spanned numerous ideas and showed off his mastery of tailoring, draping, and building up volumes. Here, the 10 talking points from the runway.
1. The show was staged in a long white corridor inside Paris’s Hôtel des Invalides. As with past seasons, there was only one row of seats on either side of the runway, promising no one had a blocked view of the couture.
2. The collection began with a series of white looks in classic silhouettes, some with metallic brocade fabric accents, others with deconstructed white details.
3. Many looks featured flowing pieces of textural fabric added to balloon over shoulders or pouf around chests.
4. Despite the diversity in cut and silhouette, brocades proved to be a theme that ran through the entire collection.
5. Pat McGrath created a special beauty look for each model, with a large swath of models sporting some kind of Bowie-esque glitter or graphic liner around one eye.
6. There were several distinct hairstyles in the show: the first, thick shiny bangs with long hair in bright blonde or jet black; the second, rocker mullets in acidy hues; the third, messy pastel mini braids . . .
7. . . . And the last, matted-down hair with a layer of butterfly wings pinned on top.
8. Knee-high boots were airbrushed with retro designs like lipsticks, stars, and forks.
9. The bomber jacket has even infiltrated the couture runways, appearing on Margiela’s spliced with ballooning jacquards.
10. As always, Galliano did not bow at the end of the show, despite the applause.
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