Although one day remains of Berlin Fashion Week, it feels safe declaring Marina Hoermanseder as the city’s new sartorial voice. Her pretty collection’s masterfully sculpted fetish details embody the balance between Berlin’s dark heart and increasing polish. The young Viennese, Berlin-educated designer previously presented surreal, hypersexual Plexiglass and leather dresses. These theatrical garments were striking artistic statements suited for Berlin’s fetish clubs and galleries. This season shows her softening with a petal pink and walnut palette, sensual fabrics, and cuts capable of gliding through offices and working lunches. Her transition seems to signify Berlin’s budding acceptance of bourgeois comforts, but leather straps, sheer details, and a power-blue Plexi bustier prove that Hoermanseder, like the city where she lives, is retaining her hard core.
On the opposite end of the scale are Augustin Teboul’s Annelie Augustin and Odély Teboul, the city’s long-standing stars. Their elegantly debauched, all-black collections represent Berlin’s aesthetic identity, but this season they’re introducing flashes of sharp color. Embroidery and beading adorn their collection of matador jackets and slinky dresses. This new crayon palette doesn’t dilute their message but highlights their craftsmanship. Louise Friedlaender, who includes only local German handcrafts (such as weaving, knitting, leather-making, and goldsmithing) in her work, declared depression as her muse for a collection of mature garments with tear-shaped details, yet the mood at her show—and many others this season—was exuberance.
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