At yesterday’s Calvin Klein Spring ’16 presentation, creative director Kevin Carrigan name-checked festival dressing, but that reference felt more like a spiritual one than anything else. Carrigan and his team hewed close to a kind of “disruptive minimalism,” as the designer told it. His purview is an expansive one, covering denim, sportswear, and underwear (not to be confused with Francisco Costa’s Calvin Klein Collection, the luxury-priced, runway-showing iteration of the label), and this season Carrigan was especially interested in the interplay of it all, the heady mixing of the tough and the titillating. Case in point: An accordion-pleated skirt in georgette came teamed with a generously sized hoodie and black lace bralet. Looks like that hearkened back to the unfettered, not quite naive sexuality of the brand’s iconic ’90s campaigns. The still-raging revival of that decade has proved a real stroke of luck for the Calvin Klein crew, but Carrigan isn’t one to rest excessively on the brand’s laurels. Heavy on both ease and eroticism, this lineup boasted classic CK styles like languid slip dresses and even a reissued blue-jean jacket from the archives. Shown with matching culottes, it felt fresh, and those same trousers looked great in a lush, pleated knit. Elsewhere, head-to-toe floral photo prints echoed the graphic blossoms Costa sent out for the Collection this season. But as Carrigan imagined them, in oversize separates and maxi numbers, the pattern came up with edge to spare. Indeed, his bedroom-eyed boys and girls had something of a lusty, post-grunge Adam and Eve to them.
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