Think edgy and avant-garde, and the young designers of London’s Shoreditch or central Moscow will come to mind. But New York has its own rising creative class that shouldn’t be forgotten. Leading the pack is Eric Schlösberg, formerly of indie brand Ammerman Schlösberg, who is showing his first solo collection for Fall 2016. And like the AS collections before it, it’s a real trip.
Inspired by a fallen doyenne of the Upper East Side who has resorted to living with the crust punks and revelers of St. Marks Place, Schlösberg’s collection comes primarily in fire engine red and electric yellow, with plenty of fur, feathers, and beaded adornments. Styled together, the pieces pack a real punch, but on their own, they are surprisingly wearable—see: a pair of red tartan trousers or a cropped tank with lilac ostrich–feather trim. (On the flip side is a McDonald’s-hued fur coat that in shape is traditional, but in color is, well, anything but.) “As a designer I find myself more attracted to classic silhouettes—aside from that there isn’t much that’s classic about me,” Schlösberg jokes. “My clothes are all about storytelling, so I style my collections to depict the fantasies that I’ve created in my mind, but at the end of the day it’s all about taking these garments and exploring your own possibilities, telling your own story.”
Two big parts of Schlösberg’s story are the fabrication and fit—ideas not typically associated with the artsy set. Each piece is made locally in New York with precise detail, and fabrics are sourced from around the globe. “I want my clothes to not only look special, but I want them to feel special. There’s that moment when you first put on something luxurious that makes you fall in love. I want people to fall in love with my clothes,” he says.
As for the single designer life, Schlösberg says making it in New York is still a struggle for the young and inspired. “I think almost anyone starting out trying to make it on their own regardless of what their career path may be will have at least one moment of struggle here—just being able to afford rent while still having the means to produce a collection and then finding the time to produce that collection is almost impossible. I work another full-time job outside of the label to be able to make every season happen,” he admits. “That being said, we also live in a city that’s so full of visual information that there is a never-ending supply of inspiration and support . . . it’s a double-edged sword for sure.”
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