For models, fashion shows aren’t about the clothes or the glamour, they’re about exposure. Every casting is a job interview, and getting selected to walk in one of the top-tier shows is the equivalent of climbing another step up the ladder. Fashion month provides models with face time with key casting directors, designers, and stylists, the people who will continue to book them for (often better-paying) work during the remainder of the year, beyond which getting the chance to strut their stuff in front of an audience of influencers is an essential part of what boosts their careers. Showing up at the right place at the right time can take a model from unknown to It boy in a matter of seconds.
For female models, the list of shows that can provide this kind of exposure is relatively concise: Prada, Alexander Wang, Calvin Klein, and Givenchy all have proven track records for star-making success. But for male models, the lineup is slightly different. Appearing on the runway for luxury mainstays like Prada, Burberry, and Louis Vuitton will always benefit a model’s career, but buzzy It brands like J.W.Anderson can net equally impressive results. Styled by Benjamin Bruno and cast by Ashley Brokaw, the J.W. show often serves as a peek into male modeling’s future. Pushing an austere, and at times androgynous, vision of male beauty, the latest show offered modeling fans early glimpses at catwalk mainstays like Gustaaf Wassink, Marc André Turgeon, and Jack Chambers. But it’s the eclectic casting by Barbara Nicoli and Leila Ananna for Gucci that may best represent the current look du jour—if a youthful face is capable of pulling off Alessandro Michele’s whimsical wares, and then heads off and walks among the über-men of Versace, he’s proved his versatility.
While catwalk triumphs are noteworthy, it’s campaigns that offer the ultimate payoff for models on the rise. While many labels opt for actors or athletes to fill their seasonal imagery, there are still several who take their advertising casting cues straight off the runway. A walk for Dolce & Gabbana doesn’t automatically mean a model will be showing up in the seasonal Sicilian-themed ads, but it certainly bodes well for their future. Work with the brand during show month often leads to work during the off season, including lookbooks, advertising, fragrance contracts, and more. When a famously loyal designer like Riccardo Tisci, Donatella Versace, Christopher Bailey, Karl Lagerfeld, or Hedi Slimane latches onto a model, it can mean consistent bookings—which makes each of their shows essential.
While most of the attention goes to designer labels, high-street favorite Topman also has a phenomenal track record when it comes to finding the next big star. Cast by Shelley Durkan (the woman behind Louis Vuitton’s sleek menswear model lineup), Topman often sets the tone for the season that follows. As one of the first European men’s shows, it is the place to spot interesting new faces. Last season’s show opener, the London-based Sol Goss, went on to become one of the most-talked-about boys of the season, appearing in campaigns for Versus Versace and Burberry, all after his debut season. This Fall found the brand debuting Elias de Poot, a pouty music producer turned model who quickly followed up his Topman moment with walks for Prada, Jil Sander, Fendi, and more. Given its place at the start of the month, Topman may be the stealth casting coup for male models. We’ll just have to wait and see.
The post For Male Models, Which Shows Matter the Most? appeared first on Vogue.